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Club corner, Silverstone
 

Being chased into Club by
                                                                                                                                                        a Ferrari 512BB LM!
 

    Do you really want it to go faster? - or just to have more power (that you can't exploit?)
    The more power bit is later( I ) - the easiest way to go faster is to sort the setup & brakes;
                                                    I
                                                   \l/
   Suspension/Brakes

   Comment from ShakMan:
    'I don't understand what the obsession is with altering suspension bits with the Grale ? I find it
   is perfect (for road use), well damped and provides more than enough grip for most
   situations. The only reason I can see doing it is purely for aesthetic reasons. And has been
   proven by EVO magazine, more often than not it actually worsens the overall handling.

   If I was serious about modifying my EVO, I think one of the first things I would change would
   be the brakes. Yes, they provide great initial bite but I feel they can get easily over-worked
   on your favourite B-Road... and then you get those dreaded "oh shit ... " feelings.'
    Too true. Both Brembo & Tar-ox offfer excellent upgrades, from cheap to expensive.....

   Servicing

    DONT use Mobil 1 oil! - Nothing against it, it is just too thin for the heat of a turbo engine
    like the grale. The most common recommendations are for MOTUL 300 V 10w50
    or AGIP Sint 10w60 [this is similar (or the same?) as Selenia Racing 10w60]

    Use fully synthetic gear oil and brake fluid (see above!)
    If you can't find any of these, try  Demon Tweeks  (glad to see their site is better now!).

    Sorry if this sounds like I want your granny to suck eggs!!

   Some very sensible advice about servicing & not leaving your car standing, from Shahab:

    'I let the car warm up every morning before driving off.

   Let it idle for a minute before switching it off.

   Change the oil every 5000 Miles /6 Months with the best stuff I can find.

   Never boot it before the Engine oil has warmed up.

   I'm careful how I use the boost too. 1.6 bar is pushing it a bit if you've got
   standard head bolts ect, so I reserve this for very special occasions and try to
   restrict myself to around 1.3 bar. (see note **)

    The other thing is don't leave your car locked up in the garage for months on
   end in the belief that you will be able to save on the running costs. The
   Integrale doesn't like that type of treatment and will let you know about it in a
   big way next time you decide to take it on holiday.
   These are the problems I've had due to extended bouts of inactivity with a view
   to keeping Mileage and running costs down:

   Flat spots on the tyres

   Leaking Dampers

   Seized water pump <- (Very expensive)

   (**note from above!)
    I don't know what the limits are as far as the standard fuel pump
   is concerned ( Can any one else shed some light on that please) so I can't
   comment on that. My car has increased boost with increases fuel pressure but
   the Pump is standard. Standard head bolts, and standard gasket. I've had no
   problems with this set up but I do take certain precautions.

   Suspension

   Don't mess with the suspension - unless you get good advice.
    (You could lose all of your fillings!)

    Comment is from Bazza [www.evocars.co.uk]

   ' I think you will find that the Eibach springs specified for the 16v cars are too low
   thus turning it into a bump stop special - fine for billiard table smooth surfaces
   but not for the real world. We have found that Eibach Evo springs fit well on
   16vs and lower the car approx. 20 mm. all round still giving suspension travel.

    There is no need to make any alterations to your dampers. The ride height with
   these springs is the lowest it is safe to go without frequent bump stop contact.
   The ride quality is slightly stiffer but if you want the lowest centre of gravity
   whilst still retaining sufficient suspension travel, they are the way to go.
   Naturally to get the best from your car it is essential that the suspension
   geometry is set correctly.'

   Barry's last point is critical - the geometry setup is very difficult to perfect and
    involves adjustments - when done properly - that you won't find in any manual.
    The age of our cars now (and the way we use them!) means that it is rare for
    the geometry NOT to be out. It is the best value 'modification' you could have
    and at  £100 (or equivalent) you will get the money back in improved tyre wear!

   Final word -on this- from Shahab:

    'I have had the opportunity to drive a several other lowered Integrales (16V
   prepared by HORMANN in Germany, and a yellow Evo prepared by HOLZER both
   around 280 BHP )and have found them all to suffer from one or more of the
   above mentioned problems when driven on U.K roads.

   It was interesting to note that Lancia Increased suspension travel for the Evo
   when it was released.'
 

   Power upgrades

    BEFORE you do anything to the engine or chip,

    1. Get the turbo actuator modified. This is very easy & will bring the boost in
        at 2500 rpm approx.

    2. Get a decent exhaust, properly fitted. This will give you HUGE improvements
        to low & mid-range torque. Supersprint are often recommended as one of
        the best, though  bazza/BWE  supply several different makes.  RT  will give
        you the most impressive system - and it won't look like a drainpipe! It isn't
        cheap, though. You will need it remapped, too, though this will pay for itself
        with improved fuel economy.

    If you STILL need more performance (after scaring all those expensive supercars!)
    Then try BWE
    Barry has a 'piggyback' chip with two programs on it -
    one for when you want to go mental (or trackdays).
   Be VERY wary of some well know chip 'specialists'

    Running costs

    Two things to consider:

    1. These cars are in the traditional 'supercar' performance league. Why are you
    surprised when they cost almost as much to maintain? Sticking upto 350bhp in
    a little 1970's hatchback bodyshell/ engine bay was never going to make life easy!
    They are technically very complex and access is impossible sometimes.

    2. Because of this, the quality and expertise shown in the maintenance of your
    car is EVERYTHING. This applies to before you bought it too. I know - my 16V
    had a very full history, but not using experts, or decent oil. It now has a new
    engine, gearbox, brakes and an awful lot else, besides! If you spend £200 on
    a mega - inspection before you buy one, you could save yourself literally
    thousands.

    IF you choose carefully, or get one that has had lots done to it properly, these
    cars can be reliable & inexpensive to run. The worst expense is the dreadful
    fuel consumption if you use the performance!

    For more specific tech. tips see evocorner forum, or take a look at Nassers 'evotech'

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 Anything to add? mail me at integrale@dial.pipex.com